caribbean + mexico

Back to all posts
  • Ocho Rios, Jamaica: the other side of the island

    Our trips to Jamaica are always magical. I just cannot get enough of the island, the people who live there, the culture, the sunshine, and the food. Last March, we branched out from our usual visit to Couples Negril (CN) resort, risking an experience we know we would love for the possibility of a new adventure. I, of course, researched our new destination, Couples Sans Souci (CSS), thoroughly and arrived with a list of things we had to try (see Ocho Rios, Jamaica: 100 Memories.)

    (photo: just past the spa, there are some wonderful hidden seats overlooking the ocean)

    (photos, clockwise from top left: gorgeous tropical flowers at the entrance to the resort; one of the many palm trees; my standard rum and Ting at the beach grill for lunch; breadfruit!; view of one of the resort sailboats from the spa elevator; stairs into the mineral pool; so, so many stairs!; detail of the coral tile by the entrance to the resort)

    Overall we loved the understated elegance, the special hidden places we discovered all over the resort, the slightly more sophisticated demographic of our fellow travelers, the tropical foliage, waterfalls, and beautiful surroundings here. The staff here is remarkable and made us feel right at home, many of them joking with us that we would never return to Couples Negril after our week there. The food is also outstanding and, although I usually have a million photos of what we ate, I was clearly too busy stuffing it all in my mouth to bother with pictures.

    (photo: view of the mineral pool, spa, and hidden beach as well as G block where we stayed in suite G16)

    (photos, clockwise from top left: celebration decorations; the gorgeous light green water; Crackers, the parrot; the entryway to the hidden beach by the spa; Palazzina, where we ate breakfast and several dinners; us at the Starlight Gala; one of many banana banshees I drank by the main pool)

    This resort was built in the 60s and has that old-school Hollywood-on-vacation glam vibe. The mineral pool used to be the main pool and I could just envision how stylish the place must have been then. If they served alcohol there, we wouldn't have moved from that spot. They do however serve delicious cassava chips with pumpkin jalapeño and roasted artichoke dips at the veggie bar. SO good!

    (photo: view from Casanova restaurant)

    (photo: view of the main beach)

    Our room was enormous and had the most amazing view! In the morning, since I'm an early riser, I would watch the white egrets fly towards wherever their feeding grounds were for the day and then again at night, watch them fly back. (Quick note: The Chikungunya virus, spread by mosquitos, was pretty prevalent when we were there. Just make sure you use heavy duty insect repellent before you throw open those slider doors on the balcony. I forgot on day one and promptly got bit.)

    (photos, clockwise from top: the are-you-kidding-me view from our suite G16; view of the main beach; the Mr. in the mineral pool; a fabulous lamp in the main lobby; the floor tiles in the spa)

    On my birthday, I got a hot stone massage in one of the many massage huts on the cliffs overlooking the ocean. I could hear the waves crashing below and felt such gratitude for my life and the opportunity to be in Jamaica again to celebrate.

    (photos, clockwise from top: there are SO MANY steps at this resort and we found walking down to the spa and taking the elevator up to our building was easiest path (or the laziest); us at dinner at Casanova, we had a table outside and could listen to the nighttime entertainment below; the gorgeous blue steps at Palazzina -- no longer blue after their recent renovations; couples can paint rocks to leave at the resort -- many repeaters just add their latest dates to their rock; the view from my massage hut)

    When we are in Jamaica, we try to get off the resort to experience some of the real Jamaica. We hired a driver, Orville, to escort us to Scotchie's, rumored to have the best jerk on the island. The place is filled with tourists and clearly isn't "real Jamaica" but it serves up some really good food! I love breadfruit and ordered a side with my jerk chicken and a Red Stripe (of course!). We bought lunch for Orville and enjoyed sitting with him and talking over our delicious meal.

    (photos, clockwise from top: Scotchie's; jerk chicken, roasted breadfruit, and Red Stripe; birthday jerk photo at Scotchie's)

    One of the best things we experienced was on our last night. Couples rewards people who visit their resorts multiple times (we're called "repeaters"), and we learned that we had quite a bit of resort credit left to spend so we booked a private sunset tour on their speedboat, Dolce Vita. Somehow we managed to not spill a drop of champagne even though we were bumping all over the place at high speeds. The Mr. got to drive and we had a nice tour of Dunn's River Falls, Lobster Dave's and the cruise port, and some of the nearby resorts, like the iconic Jamaica Inn.

    (photos, clockwise from top left: one of my favorite photos of the Mr. -- totally relaxed and loving life; Lobster Dave's; us as the sun went down and the Mr. took the wheel; Dunn's River Falls; sunset; us in front of the Jamaica Inn; and the end of the champagne.)

    So, I'm guessing many of you may be wondering which resort or which side of the island we liked best. As far as the resorts themselves go, if they could move the older part of CSS with it's old school glamour, tropical foliage, and gorgeous views next to Couples Negril; add a floating dock to the CN beach, and get someone to carry my up the stairs, it would be the perfect resort. Both are amazing places to visit, have wonderful people, and fantastic food.

    (photo: view from G block looking over the hidden seats past the spa)

    (photos, clockwise from top left: the Mr. at the main pool where we spent most of our time; gorgeous foliage we saw on our nature walk with a member of the staff; awesome tile; a local boat on the beach; us at the Beach Party our first night there (BIG smiles); and some of the straw items for sale by local vendors.)

    But this is where my heart is clear: Ocho Rios made me feel a little like I was playing dress up. Negril -- with its long sandy beach, cliffs, super casual vibe, and easy mingling of tourists and locals -- makes me feel like I'm 20 years old, wearing cut off jean shorts and flip flops. It's more me than I am.

    While we don't have a trip booked for Jamaica just yet (GASP!), I'm certain we will return soon. I'm curious about other parts of the island like Port Antonio, but I won't be able to resist the pull of Negril for too much longer. 

    For more details, feel free to read my review on Trip Advisor.